What is Sant Joan in Ciutadella?
Ciutadella, at the western end of Menorca, was the island's old capital, a town of honey-coloured stone, palaces and narrow streets around a little harbour. Every year at midsummer it celebrates Saint John the Baptist with one of the most thrilling festivals in Spain, built around the town's riders and their horses.
At the centre of the festival are the caixers, riders who represent the traditional estates of Menorcan society: the nobility, the clergy, the artisans and the farmers. Dressed in black and white, they ride Menorcan horses, a black breed native to the island, and they are led by the fabioler, who rides a donkey and plays the fabiol, a small flute, accompanied by a drum. Wherever the fabioler goes, the riders follow, and so does the crowd.
The most famous moment is the jaleo. In a packed square, to the music of the town band, each rider urges his horse to rear up on its hind legs, high above the heads of the crowd, which surges around it, trying to touch the horse's chest for luck. Horses may hop forward on their back legs for several steps, to roars from the crowd. It looks dangerous, and it is, but the festival's traditions are taken seriously, and the bond between riders, horses and townspeople is close.
The festival begins the Sunday before Saint John's Day with the Diumenge des Be, when a man dressed in lambskins walks the streets barefoot, carrying a live lamb on his shoulders, to announce the celebrations. It ends on June 24 with jousting games on horseback and fireworks.
What to expect
The festival opens on the Sunday before June 24, with the main celebrations on June 23 and 24.
Sunday before
The Diumenge des Be
A man in lambskins carrying a lamb walks barefoot through the town, accompanied by the fabioler and riders, to announce the festival.
June 23
The jaleo
The riders gather, ride through the town to the Mass and, in the afternoon, perform the first jaleo in the main square, where the crowd surges around the rearing horses. The night is filled with parties.
June 24
Saint John's Day
After another jaleo, the riders compete in traditional games on horseback, such as spearing rings at a gallop, and the festival ends with fireworks.
The jaleo in Ciutadella
Photo by rosergoula / flickr · CC BY 2.0
Planning your trip
Getting there
Menorca's airport, near Maó, has flights from mainland Spain and, in summer, from across Europe. Ciutadella is about 45 kilometres away, a 40-minute drive or bus ride. Ferries connect Ciutadella with Mallorca, and Maó with Barcelona.
Where to stay
Ciutadella's hotels, guesthouses and holiday apartments sell out months ahead for Sant Joan. Book as early as you can, or stay elsewhere on the island, though buses and roads are busy on the festival days.
What it costs
The festival is free. Menorca is a popular summer island, and room prices in late June are high. Eating and drinking in the town is moderately priced, and the island's beaches are free.
Go like you know
- Drink a pomada, the Menorcan mix of gin and lemonade, which flows throughout the festival.
- Throw hazelnuts, as the locals do; it's a festival tradition, and you'll find them crunching underfoot.
- Visit the coves around Ciutadella in the mornings, when the town sleeps off the night before.
- Walk the old town's arcaded streets on a quiet morning to see the palaces and the cathedral without the crowds.
- Alicante's Hogueras de San Juan is another great celebration of Saint John's night in Spain.
- For Spain's most famous summer festival, see Pamplona's San Fermín, in July.
Frequently asked questions
When are the Festes de Sant Joan in Ciutadella?
Every year on June 23 and 24, opening on the Sunday before with the Diumenge des Be. In 2027, the Diumenge des Be falls on June 20, and the main days are Wednesday June 23 and Thursday June 24. The town council publishes the full programme each spring.
What is the jaleo?
The jaleo is the climax of the festival. In a crowded square, to the music of the town band, the riders make their horses rear up on their hind legs in the middle of the crowd. People press close to touch the horses, and the most skilled riders keep their horses up for several steps.
Is it safe for visitors?
The jaleo carries real risk, and injuries happen each year. If you want to experience it, watch from the edges of the crowd and follow the lead of locals. Most of the festival, from the processions to the games and fireworks, can be enjoyed safely at a distance.
