What is the Carnaval de Santa Cruz de Tenerife?
Santa Cruz is the capital of Tenerife, the largest of the Canary Islands, off the coast of Africa. Every February, it hosts one of the biggest carnivals in the world, often compared with Rio's. For about two weeks, the city fills with music, costumes and street parties, from elaborate galas on stage to days and nights of dancing in the streets, with mild winter weather that draws visitors from across Europe.
Written records of carnival in Santa Cruz go back to the late eighteenth century. During the dictatorships of the twentieth century, when carnival was banned in Spain, the people of Santa Cruz kept the celebration alive under another name, the Fiestas de Invierno, or Winter Festivities, a story the city still tells with pride. It was declared a Fiesta of International Tourist Interest around 1980.
The carnival has two sides. The first is the competition: more than a hundred groups take part in contests of murgas, satirical choirs who sing about politics and daily life; comparsas, dance troupes with Brazilian-style rhythms; and rondallas, string and choir groups. The highlight is the gala to elect the Carnival Queen, where candidates appear in towering costumes of feathers, sequins and structures that can weigh up to 100 kilos, which they pull across the stage.
The second side is the street. Hundreds of thousands of people in costume dance in the streets around the port to bands and DJs, and in 2018 the carnival counted more than a million participants. In 1987, a concert by Celia Cruz drew a crowd of about 200,000 people, entering the Guinness World Records.
What to expect
The street carnival lasts about ten days, with galas and contests in the weeks before.
Before the street carnival
Galas and contests
Murgas, comparsas and rondallas compete in contests, and the Queen is chosen at the big gala, where candidates parade their giant costumes.
Opening Friday
The Cabalgata
The street carnival opens with the Cabalgata Anunciadora, a parade through the city, followed by the first big night of street parties.
Tuesday and after
The Coso and the Sardine
The great Coso parade fills the seafront on Carnival Tuesday. The next night, the burial of the sardine, a mock funeral with mourners in costume, ends with fireworks, before a last weekend of daytime parties.
In costume at the Santa Cruz carnival
Photo by Mataparda / flickr · CC BY 2.0
Planning your trip
Getting there
Tenerife has two airports. Tenerife North, about 11 kilometres from Santa Cruz, has flights from mainland Spain and other islands; Tenerife South, about 60 kilometres away, has most international flights. Buses and taxis connect both airports with the city, and the street carnival is in the centre, near the port.
Where to stay
Hotels in Santa Cruz fill up during carnival, so book early. Many visitors stay in La Laguna, a historic town a short tram ride away, or in the resorts of the south of the island and travel to the city for the parties.
What it costs
The street parties and parades are free. Tickets for the galas sell out quickly and are sold online, while some reserved seats along the Coso route are paid. Tenerife is moderately priced, and food and drink at the street stalls are cheap.
Go like you know
- Bring a costume, or build one; almost everyone in the streets is dressed up.
- Watch a murga contest for a taste of the satire, even if you don't follow the Spanish jokes.
- Climb Mount Teide, Spain's highest peak, or explore the island's beaches between parties.
- Spain's other great winter fiesta, Valencia's Las Fallas, burns giant sculptures in March.
- For more carnival, see the Rio Carnival or the masks of the Venice Carnival.
Frequently asked questions
When is the Santa Cruz carnival in 2027?
In 2027, the city has moved the carnival two weeks later than usual. The street carnival is set for February 19 to 28, with Carnival Tuesday on February 23, and the opening gala in January. In most years, the dates follow the Easter calendar, so check the programme.
Do I need a costume?
No, but you'll feel out of place without one. Most people in the streets wear costumes, from simple wigs and face paint to elaborate group outfits. Shops in Santa Cruz sell costumes and accessories in the weeks before, and anything goes, as long as it's fun and colourful.
Is the carnival suitable for children?
Yes, especially the daytime events. The Carnaval de Día, the Cabalgata and the Coso parade are popular with families, and there are special events for children. The night parties are crowded and go on until morning, so they are better suited to adults.
