What is the Virgen del Carmen de Paucartambo?
Paucartambo is a small colonial town in the Andes of southern Peru, about three hours by road from Cusco, at almost 2,900 metres above sea level, with a stone bridge over its river and white houses with blue balconies. For most of the year it is quiet. But every July it hosts one of the most extraordinary festivals in Peru: the fiesta of the Virgen del Carmen, known affectionately as the Mamacha Carmen, the town's patron, held around her feast day on July 16.
For several days, tens of thousands of visitors, nearly all of them Peruvian, crowd into Paucartambo to see its dances. Around nineteen groups, or comparsas, each with its own costumes, music and handmade masks, dance through the streets, on the rooftops and on the balconies. The masks of Paucartambo are famous; the knowledge and techniques of the town's mask makers have been declared part of Peru's national cultural heritage.
Each dance tells a story. The Qhapaq Qolla represent traders from the high plateau around Lake Titicaca. The Qhapaq Ch'unchu, in feathered headdresses, represent the peoples of the Amazon lowlands and act as the Virgin's guardians. The Saqras, devils in fierce horned masks, climb onto the rooftops and balconies as the Virgin passes, trying to tempt her away. Other dances, such as the Qhapaq Negro, recall the history of the colonial period. Through the days of the fiesta, these characters act out battles, rivalries and legends around the procession of the Virgin.
The fiesta is a deep expression of faith as well as a spectacle, and the dancers prepare for months, many fulfilling promises to the Virgin.
What to expect
The fiesta runs over several days around July 16, with dances, processions and Masses.
July 15
The eve
The dance groups arrive in the town and dance through the streets, and in the evening there are fireworks and music in the main square.
July 16
The Virgin's day
After Mass, the image of the Virgin is carried in procession through the streets, escorted by the dancers, while the Saqras watch from the rooftops and balconies above.
July 17 and 18
Cemetery and battle
The dancers visit the cemetery to honour the dead, and the fiesta ends with the guerrilla, a ritual battle between the Ch'unchu and the Qolla, before the groups say farewell to the Virgin.
Dancers on a balcony in Paucartambo
Photo by foolonhill77 / flickr · CC BY 2.0
Planning your trip
Getting there
Cusco's airport has flights from Lima and other Peruvian cities. From Cusco, Paucartambo is about three hours by road on a winding mountain route. Buses and shared vans run from Cusco, but during the fiesta they fill quickly, and many visitors join organized tours.
Where to stay
Paucartambo has very few hotels, and they are booked long in advance. Many visitors rent a room in a family home, camp, or come on a tour from Cusco, which can be a long day. If you plan to stay, arrange a bed well before you arrive.
What it costs
The fiesta is free, and food and drink in the town are inexpensive. The main costs are transport from Cusco and a bed, which can be expensive or hard to find during the festival. Tours from Cusco are a practical, mid-priced option.
Go like you know
- Find a spot near the main square early, or ask a family for a place on their balcony; locals sometimes rent them out.
- Look up at the rooftops when the Virgin passes, where the Saqras put on their show.
- Respect the faith behind the fiesta: ask before photographing people, and stay quiet during Masses and processions.
- Cusco's Inti Raymi, in June, is Peru's great festival of the sun.
- For the region's great dance festival on Lake Titicaca, see Puno's Fiesta de la Candelaria, in February.
Frequently asked questions
When is the Virgen del Carmen fiesta in Paucartambo?
Around July 16, the feast of the Virgen del Carmen. The main days usually run from July 15 to 18, though the programme can vary slightly from year to year. Check the year's schedule with the municipality or tour operators in Cusco before you go.
Who are the Saqras?
The Saqras are devil dancers, in colourful costumes and fierce masks with horns and animal features. During the procession they climb onto the rooftops and balconies, trying to tempt the Virgin, who eventually defeats them. They are among the most famous characters of the fiesta.
Is Paucartambo safe to visit during the fiesta?
Generally yes, but the town is crowded and celebrations involve heavy drinking. Stay with your group, keep valuables out of sight, and use reputable transport, avoiding night driving on the mountain roads. Most visitors find the atmosphere welcoming and the experience unforgettable.
