Festa dei Ceri

What is the Festa dei Ceri?

Gubbio is a medieval hill town in Umbria, in central Italy, built of grey stone on the slopes of Monte Ingino. Every year on May 15, it holds one of the oldest and most exhilarating festivals in Italy: the Festa dei Ceri. Three teams carry three enormous wooden structures, the ceri, each topped by the statue of a saint, through the streets of the town and then race them up the mountain to the basilica at the top.

The festival is linked to Saint Ubaldo, the bishop of Gubbio and the town's patron saint, who died on May 16, 1160. Each cero is a tall wooden structure of about five metres including the statue, weighing around 260 to 290 kilograms. The first carries Saint Ubaldo, the second Saint George and the third Saint Anthony, and each is carried by its own team of ceraioli, dressed in white trousers, red sashes and shirts in their saint's colour: yellow for Ubaldo, blue for George and black for Anthony. The ceri are so important to the region that they appear on the flag of Umbria.

The day starts early with processions and a mass, and the ceri are raised upright in Piazza Grande at the Alzata, just before midday, when they are spun around the square three times and water jugs are thrown into the crowd, whose fragments are prized as lucky charms. In the afternoon, the ceri are paraded through the town.

The climax comes in the early evening: the race. The three teams carry their ceri at full speed through the streets and up the steep path of Monte Ingino to the Basilica of Sant'Ubaldo, a climb of about 1.6 kilometres that takes less than ten minutes. The order never changes: Saint Ubaldo always arrives first.

What to expect

The festival takes place on May 15, from dawn until late in the evening.

Planning your trip

Getting there

Gubbio has no railway station of its own; the nearest is Fossato di Vico-Gubbio, with buses into town, and Perugia is the nearest larger city, about 40 kilometres away by road. Many visitors drive or come by bus from Perugia.

Where to stay

Gubbio has hotels and guesthouses in the historic centre, which fill up for May 15. Perugia and the towns of the Umbrian countryside are alternatives, with agriturismi offering a quieter stay.

What it costs

The festival is free. Umbria is moderately priced, with excellent food, from truffles to cured meats, in Gubbio's trattorias.

Go like you know

• Take the cable car up Monte Ingino to the Basilica of Sant'Ubaldo, where the ceri are kept for the rest of the year.
• Visit the Palazzo dei Consoli, the great medieval palace above Piazza Grande.
• Wear the colour of your favourite saint: yellow, blue or black.
• Try crescia, Gubbio's flatbread, filled with local cheese and cured meats.
• Florence's Scoppio del Carro, at Easter, is another of Italy's great ancient festivals.
• Siena's Palio, in July and August, is Italy's most famous race.

Frequently asked questions

When is the Festa dei Ceri?

Every year on May 15, the eve of the feast of Saint Ubaldo. In 2027, May 15 falls on a Saturday. The day starts at dawn, with the Alzata just before midday and the race up Monte Ingino in the early evening. The festival was cancelled only in 2020 and 2021.

Who wins the race?

The race is not a competition in the usual sense: Saint Ubaldo always arrives first, followed by Saint George and Saint Anthony. What matters is how well each team carries its cero, without letting it fall or letting the team behind catch up, and the honour of carrying it.

How heavy are the ceri?

Each cero weighs around 260 to 290 kilograms and stands about five metres tall with its statue. Teams of ceraioli take turns carrying them on their shoulders, changing over at speed during the race, which requires months of practice and perfect coordination.

Can I watch the arrival at the basilica?

Yes, but plan ahead. The path up Monte Ingino is reserved for the ceri, so take the cable car or walk up well before the race, and expect a big crowd at the top. Many visitors prefer the lower town, where they can see the ceri set off at full speed.